With a flexible and affordable rover pass (which also includes buses and ferries), our writer explores Scotland’s western isles, Highlands and cities

‘We drown in otters here,” said ranger Amie Dow as she showed me around the tiny off-grid coastal community of Inverie, on north-west Scotland’s remote Knoydart peninsula. That would totally be my kind of death. Sadly though, not a single otter showed its furry face, so I had to content myself with a tour of the picturesque village – some of whose houses residents built themselves – and the soul-easing community woodland around it. I remarked at the wonderful self-sufficiency of the villagers.

“We’ve got a saying here,” Amie added with a smile. “Nobody’s going to save you on Knoydart.”

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